Showing posts with label Maine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maine. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

The Cold Swedish Winter: New Sweden, Maine



In researching the seemingly uncharted northern half of Maine, we discovered that Aroostook County - a landmass that occupies more square miles than Connecticut and Rhode Island combined - contains one of the country’s only Swedish settlements, the aptly named New Sweden. Most residents of the enormous county are of French ancestry (Acadians), but this one tiny hamlet has a predominantly Swedish population.
"It's only natural" might be the best location slogan ever.
New Sweden’s population has dwindled greatly in recent years. Many of the homes have been abandoned and left to rot under moss and fallen branches. We averaged at least a quarter (maybe even more) of the homes were up for sale. This isn’t isolated just to New Sweden; in fact, this seemed to pepper most of Northern Aroostook. For such a large section of land, it has been woefully overlooked, and its economic structure is suffering greatly for it.

New Sweden’s historical museum, overseen by an elderly woman, contains artifacts and memorabilia owned by its earliest settlers — baby shoes, traditional dresses, suitcases, and musical instruments, all in absolutely beautiful condition. The building is filled with hundreds of pieces, laid out more like someone’s messy bedroom than a museum. It is almost impossible to see everything unless you  shuffle items around and pull things out of cabinets, both of which are strongly discouraged.


That didn’t stop us from poking around. Underneath the shelf of musical instruments (including a bizarre two-sided violin), he pulled out a white cardboard box and cracked open the lid. 

“Holy shit! You have to see this.”

Inside were literally dozens of perfectly preserved wax cylinders, including one of The Passing Show of 1912, all from the Vaudeville era of popular song. One of Alex’s friends and former teachers at Brooklyn College is literally the only scholar in the country who specializes in this time period of popular song.


Recognizing its value, both for research and historical purposes, he said, “These should be in an archive, not rotting away in a box in this town with 450 people.”

When we went downstairs, Alex spoke with the curator, identifying himself as a music historian (he always jokes about the rare occasion he gets to say he is a musicologist) very interested in the wax cylinders upstairs. At first, the lady wasn’t sure what he was talking about. After she finally remembered, she said their museum was keen on hanging onto them. Their reason? “Every now and again, a school group comes by and we’ll play one for them.” Deflated, Alex still left his full contact info, providing the names of several music archives and archivists who would be very interested in acquiring the wax cylinders. 

Three months have passed since our visit, and as of this writing Alex has yet to hear back.

Just recently, we met up with Alex’s friend who specializes in popular music from the 1910’s, Dr. Jonas Westover. When Alex shared this story with Jonas, after telling him the old lady’s rationale for hanging onto boxes of wax cylinders, Jonas stopped him and said, “Wait a second - those cylinders are playable?!”

“In pristine fucking condition.”

Jonas shared in our pain.

Back to June: As we left New Sweden, we thought about all the similar museums we had seen on our trip so far. Many of them receive funding from local, state, or even federal sources. This museum seemed to be run by a local historical society. There was so much history, preserved so poorly. An institution like this in such a sparsely populated region could very well die with its curators, the contents sold at auction for a pittance, winding up in someone’s curio cabinet instead of an archive.

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

The Weird Revolution: Portland, ME



“Keep Portland weird!” begs a flier taped to the side of an electrical box on a street corner. We perceive the flier as more of an invitation than a demand, like suggested donations at church or vaccinations for HPV. We were craving some weird, especially after almost a month of the picket-fenced land of the haves and have-nots that is New England. Trying to find something weird in New England is like trying to find a black person at a Jimmy Buffett concert - it is just not going to happen.

The Portland of the east is kind of what we imagine the Portland of the west to be like, or at least what we know from pop culture — liberal, quirky, and proud. Unlike so many cities in the Mid-Atlantic and into New England, Portland possesses something that is borderline extinct in modern-day America: a strong sense of community.

We'll try...
...and fail.
Congress Street, Portland’s main thruway, won most of our attention for the day with countless record stores, vintage shops, and adorable restaurants. Our narrow budget keeps us from making unnecessary purchases, but we could not resist browsing around. In one store, Alex got a high-five from the clerk for correctly guessing the song being played over the speakers: the title track to Frank Zappa’s Jazz From Hell album. Talk about your deep cuts.

They also had this.
And this.
We spent 45 minutes at a toy store that specialized in action figures from the 80s and 90s, showing each other the ones we owned and played with as kids. They even had a bridal Barbie figurine I got in a Happy Meal when I was in elementary school. I did not think I would ever see that thing again, definitely not in a toy store in Portland, Maine.

For lunch, we grabbed Eritrean food at a tiny restaurant off the main street. The spot was family operated and halfway through our meal, the owner’s daughter and a friend came in for lunch. Family owned restaurants are always a delight. The recipes are family favorites, having been passed down for generations, giving an authentic taste of what “back home” is for your hosts.


We spent the rest of the day getting lost among rows of books in a labyrinth-style bookstore called YES Books and picking up a small ET figurine for Alex’s brother Eric. When the town began to shut down around 6 p.m. we called it a day and headed for the car.

By New England’s standards, Portland is weird, solely for the fact that it is not a city filled with Revolutionary War memorials, big wooden galleons in the harbor, and places to get clams. If the Green Party ran the world, this is what its capital city would look like. Portland is a unique mix of Mid-Atlantic cosmopolitan, New England seaside, and - perhaps the missing ingredient in the equation - Mainer charm. Portland has gained two more super-weird fans.