Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Dining Review: Clyde Cooper's Barbecue (Raleigh, NC)

Uniquely Carolinian and remarkably tasty, Clyde Cooper’s is a barbecue joint unlike any other. In the heart of downtown Raleigh, Clyde Cooper’s has been a Carolina-style barbecue institution since 1938, and both it’s owners and long-time patrons have no problem letting you know they are the best in the business.

While barbecue has gained the reputation of being a largely Southern cuisine, there are four main regional styles of barbecue in the United States - Carolina, Kansas City, Texas, and Memphis. Carolina barbecue consists of pork which is dry rubbed with spices and smoked in a vinegar-based sauce. Kansas City barbecue is steeped in a thick, sweet sauce after it’s cooked. Texas barbecue is made with a tomato-based sauce and smoked over hickory wood to give it a distinct flavor. Memphis style is slow cooked over a pit and prepared either “wet” or “dry,” meaning with or without sauce.

Clyde Cooper’s is now owned by a husband and wife team, but the man responsible for its namesake ran the restaurant for more than 50 years. His delicious barbecue was not the only thing making Clyde Cooper a local hero. He was one of the first restaurant owners in the area to completely dismiss segregation, happily allowing patrons of any race to not only eat at his establishment, but to also sit wherever and with whomever they wanted. Talk about progressive dining!

The meat at Clyde Cooper’s comes either sliced, chopped, or coarse, which was pretty confusing for two people who have had about as little experience with barbecue as possible. That’s not to say it never enticed us, but growing up in the Midwest and Northeast, barbecue generally meant pulled pork bathed in store-bought sauce and served in a crock pot at family reunions. We both picked sliced barbecue sandwiches, topped with coleslaw and served with hot, fresh hush-puppies and pork rinds. The meat was so tender it nearly melted. The vinegar-based sauce was tangy, zesty, and spicy without being overpowering. Every table comes equipped with extra sauce for diners looking to drench their dish in even more spicy, vinegary goodness.

Clyde Cooper’s also offers barbecue chicken and baby back ribs along with classic sides like collard greens and steamed cabbage.

The establishment recently celebrated their 75th anniversary with a giant party and a fundraiser for the SPCA, which might seem a little ironic seeing as they are a predominantly meat-based restaurant. But hey, any friend to the animals is a friend of ours.

A meal for two cost less than $10, which was completely unfathomable coming from a place where the average cocktail costs the same amount. It seems as though the prices, much like the recipes, haven’t changed since the store first opened. If you’re in the Raleigh area, check out this fiery favorite and sample some incredible Carolina-style barbecue.


Clyde Cooper's Barbecue
109 East Davie Street, Raleigh, NC
919-832-7614

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